Taking inspiration from their favorite band members (Siouxsie Sioux, Patricia Morrison, Andrew Eldritch and Dave Vanian), the women wore elements of period costume—full skirts, bodices and corsets—subverted with hints of PVC, latex and dominatrix leather. The men were equally flamboyant, blurring gender lines with their crucifixes, nail polish and spooky makeup, which they wore incongruously with combat boots and weathered leather jackets.

By the time the 90s arrived, the subculture had split into different movements. There were the forward-thinking Cybergoths who loved raving, science fiction and techno, easily recognizable by their matrixGothic-style trench coats and phosphorescent rave markings. Elsewhere, the Gothabilly scene paid tribute to 50s pin-ups like Bettie Page, brought back to life with pencil skirts, fishnet tights, beehive hairstyles and exaggerated wings. By the mid-2000s, however, that was over. Of course, Gothic was still present, but only in the nooks and crannies of culture. Today, it has re-entered the mainstream. And we are witnessing the return of Beetlejuice to thank for it. To put it in the words of the spirit with the most self: “It’s Showtime!”

So what do Goths look like in 2024? Well, there is no clear answer to that. While in the 80s you had to adhere to a strict dress code, today things are much more fluid. In fact, in this era of individuality, Goths can be anything, as long as it is rooted in a celebration of darkness. Goth is Mariacarla Boscono in Beetlejuice Premiere, a ghostly apparition in a silk and feather dress by Ann Demeulemeester. It’s Michèle Lamy’s gigantic Comme des Garçons proportions and Erykah Badu’s enormous witch hats. It’s Doja Cat’s Mephistophelean prosthetics and Billie Eilish’s vampire fangs. It’s Fecal Matter in full Rick Owens gear and Arca in lingerie. It’s Ethel Cain’s Southern Gothic prairie girl, but it’s also Amanda Harlech looking ladylike in Chanel.

At their core, goths are outsiders, troublemakers, rebels. Yes, there is a certain look, but goth is so much more than just aesthetics. It’s not a fair-weather trend or a viral hit from yesterday. It’s an attitude and an uncompromising lifestyle. Just like Winona, goth is forever.

Tish Weinstock is the author of the forthcoming book How To Be a Goth: Notes on Undead Style, which is now available for pre-order.