This morning the Met Costume Institute announced its spring exhibition. “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” traces the story of the black dandy. Black dandyism is a fashion and cultural movement among black men that uses stylish, often extravagant clothing and grooming, sometimes to the point of obsessive perfection, as a form of self-expression and resistance.

In his closing remarks at the press event, Met Gala co-chair Pharrell Williams said, “This is what the Met Gala will celebrate: us.” Our gift, our story, our resilience and our beauty. Our style, our strength and our vision. And to be clear, we are well and well, and what a wonderful sight we have. We are a museum.”

The exhibition, the sequel to the current hit “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” runs from May 10 to October 26, 2025. “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style features clothing and ephemera from the 18th century to the present and examines the importance of clothing and style in the formation of Black identities in the American diaspora. The Costume Institute’s last exhibition dedicated solely to men’s fashion was “Men in Skirts” in 2003, making this year’s theme exceptionally rare.

“Maya Angelou Passport” ensemble, Foday Dumbuya (Sierra Leonean) for LABRUM London (British, founded 2014), Fall/Winter 2023; Courtesy of LABRUM London. Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Andrew Bolton, chief curator of the Anna Wintour Costume Center at the Met, was inspired by the book for the exhibition Slaves of Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Shaping of Black Diasporic Identity by Monica Miller, Professor and Chair of Africana Studies at Barnard College, Columbia University. Miller’s book identifies dandyism as both a political construct and an aesthetic construct. “In the show, dandyism is a fashion style that asks questions about identity, representation, mobility, race, class, gender, sexuality and power,” Miller said during her speech at the Met during the announcement this morning. She will guest curate the exhibition alongside Bolton.

Negro Drawings, Miguel Covarrubias (Mexican, 1904 – 1957), New York, London, AA Knopf, 1927; The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Visitors can expect historical and contemporary garments by American and European designers, as well as drawings, prints, decorative art, ephemera, paintings, photographs and film clips. These pieces were selected for their significant role in shaping and interpreting Black identities and experiences throughout the centuries. A photo book by Tyler Mitchell will be published to accompany the exhibition.

Zoot suit, American, 1940s; Alfred Z. Solomon, Janet A. Sloane Endowment Fund, 2024 (2024.2a, b). Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

One of the items on display at the announcement was a 1940s striped navy twill zoot suit. The zoot suit was a hallmark of black dandyism, characterized by exaggerated proportions. This suit in particular featured dramatic flared lapels, broad shoulders, long cuffs that reached the middle of the mannequin’s hands, and a strikingly cinched waist. In Black communities, the zoot suit represented more than just fashion—it was a bold statement of self-expression, cultural pride, and resistance.

Ensemble, Virgil Abloh (American, 1980 – 2021) for LOUIS VUITTON (French, founded 1854), menswear fall/winter 2021; Courtesy of the LOUIS VUITTON collection. Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bolton believes men’s fashion is experiencing a revival. Not only thanks to black designers, but also thanks to men with style. In addition to Williams, other co-chairs include actor Colman Domingo, Formula 1 racing driver Lewis Hamilton and A$AP Rocky. Basketball star Lebron James will serve as honorary co-chair.

“Kalinago Royal Coin #8” pendant, Dynasty and Soull Ogun (American, born 1984) for L’ENCHANTEUR (American, founded 2017), 2023; Courtesy of L’ENCHANTEUR. Photo © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Louis Vuitton will serve as lead sponsor, with additional support from Instagram, the Hobson/Lucas Family Foundation, Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe and Africa Fashion International, Tyler Perry and Condé Nast. The event follows the Met Gala, the Costume Institute’s premier fundraiser, scheduled for May 5.

“For me, art is an expression of our community,” said Pharrell Williams. “This is where we support our history, this is where we tell our stories.”